The Theo in the name belongs to Theo Randall, when head cook of the saintly River Café. Randall is the good, normal-looking one on Saturday Kitchen; the lad you can take home to satisfy your nan. A decade ago, he opened his own restaurant in a windowless room at the InterContinental Hotel on London’s Hyde Park Corner. Just as at the River Café, he is experts in rustic faux-peasant food for plutocrats. It has actually always been great rustic faux-peasant food– the kind that looks fantastic photographed in glossy magazines, provided on misshapen plates, randomly, in the middle of a gnarly Tuscan orchard at sundown.